The festival began with a Wednesday night jol, a free promotional concert at Greenmarket Square. The main act was Dave Koz, who had me quite literally running for my life. Cape Town loves its smooth jazz. I, uh, avoid it. I dug one of the opening acts, a rapper known as HHP. HHP pushes what one could rightly call a dialect of rap. HHP seamlessly weaves between several languages. I also have mad respect for any rapper that performs with a live band. Now that’s music!
HHP dons the stage in Greenmarket Square
A “jazz festival” is not just jazz anymore. The Cape Town Jazz Festival was sold out this year not because of the jazz line up. Headliners tend to be the likes of Sting, Kanye West, or in this case, Lauryn Hill (subbing for Jill Scott), rather than big jazz names like Wynton Marsalis or Herbie Hancock. I’m frankly okay with this. I just like good music.
Herbie Tsaoeli on bass. Soulful.
Friday was the first official night of the CT Jazz Festival. It started high, but ended low. Herbie Tsaoeli (bass) started off the evening, promoting his fresh album, African Time. Herbie’s sextet, full of young talent, played his soulful work with honesty and heart. I kicked it with Herbie in Jo Burg. I even blew over a few of his compositions. I dig them all! The highlight of the show for me was Herbie’s personable solo playing accompanied by his rich voice. It won him the crowd. But, much love to his side men—Nduduzo, Mthumzi, Ayanda and Malcolm—who showed me such a sweet time in Jo Burg.
From Herbie’s gig I caught the end of saxophonist Steve Dyer (sax, Zimbabwe). The group featured Cape Town musos I’ve come to know quite well by now. Lwanda Gogwana on trumpet, Shaun Johannes on bass, and Bokani Dyer on piano (Steve’s son). The music was meditative and sought to wrestle with the difficult realities of Africa.
Jean Grae, a conscious rapper.
Friday continued with few jazz acts. Jean Grae rocked a show that almost blew away in a ferocious wind torrent. The daughter of the great South African pianist Abdullah Ibrahim performed her first homecoming concert (she was born in Cape Town, though she grew up in NYC with many young hip hoppers my generation reveres today).
The festival has some issues. Sound problems were ever pervasive. Scheduling and timing were careless at times. Because of scheduling and timing issues, I missed the stellar pianist Alfredo Rodriguez from Cuba. Many jazz musos singled him out as a highlight of Friday night. The following morning, after his press conference, I chatted with Alfredo about relations between Cuba and the US. His story has an unfortunate air of familiarity about it. Alfredo defected from Cuba to the US to push forward his now rolling jazz career (produced by Quincy Jones). He can’t return home now. The day he does marks the day when US tourism will spoil this truly unique and culturally rich country. Alfredo’s story is analogous to a South African story. Apartheid forced the exile of many of South Africa’s greatest jazz musicians. Louis Moholo, a legendary drummer, expresses his sentiments on the matter with a simple, poignant statement: “To be in exile is a motherfucker.”
The rest of Friday was either too smooth or too loud.
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Day Two: Saturday
A lens into the Andre Peterson Quintet
Saturday saved the festival. The music was cooking. It must be if you forget to eat and sleep. Local pianist Andre Peterson led a quintet that was sonically refreshing. The acoustic band featured an array of talent and background—Reggie Washington on bass, Dre Pallemaets on drums, Marcus Stickland on sax, and Chantal Willie on vocals. The collective remained cohesive throughout, even when the power went out briefly (a truly acoustic show!).
Jazz heads moved straight from Andre’s show to the Marcus Miller gig. Marcus is shamelessly smooth at times, but man he’s a bad cat. His band was just as raw, and channeling a late Miles sound. Marcus even unleashed the bass clarinet on modern take of “In a Sentimental Mood.”
Xia Jia performs with his trio.
The Xia Jia Trio gave me my first ever dose of Chinese jazz. Xia’s compositions were lush—a beautiful sense of melody. His trio played with much poise. But the music was too safe. Jazz needs heavy dynamic contrasts; it demands risk and edginess. The Xia Jia Trio, though beautiful and quite commendable, played too conservatively.
Hugh Masekela and friends pay homage to a South African legend.
Next came the party. Hugh Masekela paid homage to Mama Afrika, the greatest of greats, Miriam Makeba. Hugh led the gig, but musically took a backseat role. Because the front seat was packed! A cast of heavy singers, Vusi Mahlasela, Zolani Mahola of Freshly Ground, and Thandiswani rocked the main stage with covers of Makeba’s best. The show featured a choir several thousand people strong: the audience.
This brother can’t help himself. He loves Makeba too much!
Scheduling issues forced a tough choice between a trio of Ron Carter (bass), Donald Harrison (sax) and Lenny White (drums) or David Sanchez. Both were phenomenal, I chose the Ron Carter gig.
Ron Carter on the great Basil Moses’ bass.
Ron Carter is one of my favorite bassists. Until now, I’d never heard him live. A Kenny Werner phrase comes to mind with respect to this Trio: effortless mastery. The Trio weaved in and out, around and about, and over and under a set of familiar standards. Ron Carter and Lenny White were one. Donald Harrison flew.
Lauryn Hill closed the festival. She’s so damn talented. But the poor sound quality had her flustered and a bit psychotic. She walked off stage several times, but always to return. She took a dwindling audience through all the hits, from the Fugees, to Miseducation to Bob Marley. I only wish she hadn’t counted off every song at twice the original speed. The show was starting to become a rave.
The after party rocked. A jam at the Mahogany Room and the Waterfront had me home round about sunrise. The energy was hectic. Thanks to Saturday, the Cape Town Jazz Festival will remain a memorable weekend, and a wild capstone to my time in South Africa. One love to all the musos! My time is up, for now.
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Next up: Brazil.